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Stopping by Krispy Kreme On I-65, south of Louisville, our eyes locked on the totem KRISPY KREME half lost in a forest of signs, we turned off the main stream. We'd heard the donut chain's disappearing. Tucked in a corner, behind faux-glass double doors, they lay fluorescent. We ransacked the last row. On the road, nostalgia, sugar, sixties tunes: hit the road, Jack, Ray's outrage, Martha and the Vandallas nowhere to run, nowhere to hide. All afternoon, we picked our way through Broncos and eighteen wheelers with sticky hands. At Hodgenville, Lincoln's birthplace, we rummaged through chocolate Lincoln, key chain Lincoln, Lincoln lunch boxes, his face on every wall watching us. Named after his grandfather, Abraham, who was killed by an Indian his father killed one moment later. In the museum, a facsimile of a letter. How once, in Kentucky, Lincoln witnessed a slave caravan pass through town. On hands and necks a web of chains, iron collars chafing. At that moment, he saw a family sundered as easily, perhaps, as we imagine him heft his fabled axe. History is part cartoon, part bloodied tongue: Mary Todd's madness, presidential depression, the prurience of news we abhor and buy. What were the headlines— why did Booth scream, "sic semper tyrannus"? We pressed play, and Lincoln whirred to life, 1863, Gettysburg: "our fathers brought forth a new nation, conceived in liberty...all men created equal...." What do we know of Lincoln's mother the family left, buried in Kentucky? That she couldn't read. I once asked my mom what she'd like remembered of her family. "That's nice, sweetheart," was all she passed on. In the car, we listened to '68— letter-tapes my dad sent home, holed up in a Saigon hotel during Tet, angular fear in his cool monotone. As the tape wound down, he invoked his family's names—Mom, Dad, Richard, John, Lila baby, as if they formed a mantra strong enough to hold the VC off. How easy to eject the tape, ease out of our rental's A/C into Lincoln's one-windowed shack, cradled now in pillared limestone. We walked inside, then quickly out again. It seemed wrong to gawk at what had been just a shell from the elements. Outside, wind creaking cedars. Here, at Sinking Springs, Lincoln dunked buckets for water. Then they moved, and moved again, and he to Springfield, across the country, to Washington, and finally to Ford Theater, now a museum diorama where his head slumps and Mary's mouth gapes open and open, actors even in the balcony. |